Bambu Lab PETG Translucent Filament 1.75mm 1kg

PETG you can see through. Light passes into the part and diffuses through the walls, so prints read as tinted glass rather than solid plastic — lamp shades, light guides, fluid-filled housings, anything where you want to see what's inside.

It keeps the practical side of PETG too: water resistant, UV resistant and unbothered by temperature swings, so it holds up outdoors where PLA would go brittle.

At a glance

Spool or Refill?

Spool — Comes on a reusable Bambu spool. Pick this for your first roll of a colour.

Refill — Filament only, $2 cheaper, needs an empty reusable spool to mount on. Less plastic in the bin, less money out of your pocket.

Getting the clearest results

Fewer, thicker layers beat more, thinner ones. Every layer line scatters light, so clarity comes from reducing the number of interfaces — a taller layer height and a wider extrusion width give a cleaner result than fine detail settings. 100% infill with no sparse pattern behind the walls matters more than anything else.

Slow down. Bambu caps this one at 220 mm/s rather than PETG Basic's 200 mm/s — but for optical parts, printing well under that helps the layers fuse into each other instead of stacking as visible lines.

Bambu have published a detailed guide to getting genuinely transparent prints out of this material — wall and infill strategy, layer height, temperature and the trade-offs between them. Worth reading before a piece that has to be clear: Printing transparent PETG — Bambu Lab Wiki

Worth knowing

Impact strength is the best of the PETG range at 37.4 kJ/m², so parts take a knock well. It is the least rigid though — 1420 MPa against PETG Basic's 2780 — so a thin part will flex noticeably. Build walls thicker than you would in Basic if the part carries load.

Storage

Bambu specifies under 20% RH, sealed with desiccant, and 65°C for 8 hours before printing. Damp filament matters more here than in opaque colours — the steam bubbles turn into tiny voids that scatter light and cloud the part.

As filament takes on moisture you'll hear popping or hissing at the nozzle, then see stringing and rough surfaces, and eventually the strand goes brittle enough to snap in the tube. That's almost always moisture, not technique. Dry it at 65°C for 8 hours and it usually comes back.